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Carbonara from a centuries-old trattoria

BBC World's Table
Features correspondent
The partenity of an iconic Roman pasta is being challenged

Perilli a Testaccio has been a go-to neighbourhood spot for Roman dishes for more than 100 years, and its traditional Carbonara has stood the test of time.

Carbonara recipe

By Perilli a Testaccio

One of the oldest trattorias in Rome, located in the heart of the Testaccio neighbourhood, Perilli has been serving Roman classics since 1911. Its traditional carbonara is widely considered one of the best in Rome.

According to restaurant owner, Maurizio Perilli, the dish is made with simple ingredients that must be of the highest quality, including "good guanciale, good pasta and always delicious hen eggs".

And to cook the guanciale correctly, he says you'll need a cast iron pan and enough cooking time to render out the fat and to make the meat not just browned, but also "crunchy".

WATCH: How to make Perilli's carbonara (Video credit: Elisabetta Abrami)

Ingredients

70-80g guanciale, cut into small pieces

100-120g pasta (Perilli uses rigatoni)

1 egg

pinch of black pepper

pecorino, grated

parmesan, grated

Method

Step 1

Heat a cast-iron frying pan (this is important!), first on high heat and then turn it down a bit. Add the guanciale to the pan (no oil, no butter, no onion – nothing!). Once browned, turn off the heat and leave it on the burner until it becomes crunchy.

Step 2

In a bowl, add egg and season with pepper. Whip the egg, but not too much otherwise it will fall apart.

Step 3

Put the pasta in boiling water and cook for 10 minutes (or according to package instructions). Drain the pasta, then add to the beaten egg.

Step 4

Heat up the guanciale (it should be piping hot and crunchy), then turn off the burner. Add a little rendered fat from the guanciale to the pasta, then add the guanciale.

Step 4

Add a handful of grated pecorino and a little parmesan, and start turning the pasta in the bowl (you'll need a good wrist game).

Step 5

Sprinkle with extra pecorino and parmesan. You can serve the pasta in the bowl itself, placing a serving dish under the bowl.

Video directed, filmed and edited by Elisabetta Abrami

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